Chaliyar: Stories from a River That Never Sleeps
By Dr. M.K. Premarajan
Flowing through the heart of Kerala, the Chaliyar
River is more than a mere waterway—it is a lifeline, a silent storyteller, and
a witness to the changing lives of those who live along its banks. Originating
in the Western Ghats, Chaliyar winds its way through Malappuram and
Kozhikode districts before merging with the Arabian Sea at Beypore. Its waters
have nurtured communities, fueled industries, and inspired countless
stories—some well-known, others whispered through generations.
Origins and Course
Chaliyar is formed by the confluence of Swarnappuzha,
which originates from Kunthimala, and Cholappuzha, which begins in the
Wayanad mountain ranges. Before and after their union in the Nilambur forests,
these rivers are joined by several smaller tributaries, including the Iruvazhinjippuzha
at Koolimad and the Kanniparamba River at Urkadavu. As the river flows
toward the sea, it carries with it the history, livelihood, and traditions of
the people who call its banks home.
A River of Livelihoods
For generations, the people of Chaliyar have built their
lives around the river. Fishing, sand mining, coir processing, and weaving palm
leaves were once the pillars of their economy. Before roads took over, boats
and rafts (therappam) carried timber to Kallayi, tiles to Feroke, and goods to
the Beypore port, making Chaliyar a bustling trade route.
However, change is inevitable. Old ways fade, and new
realities take their place. Yet, the riverine people hold on to their past
through stories—stories that turn Chaliyar into a living archive of memory and
wisdom.
Tales from the Chaliyar
One such tale speaks of a mahout who lost his life while
retrieving an elephant chain placed on a rock in the river. His story is retold
to warn of Chaliyar’s unpredictable currents. During heavy rains in the
mountains, the river swells, creating deadly undercurrents that claim lives
every year.
The river is also home to rituals and traditions. In the
past, when saltwater from the sea flowed upstream, locals used it to irrigate
coconut groves. People carrying river water in large tins slung on bamboo poles
were a common sight. The livelihoods of coir workers and palm leaf weavers
depended solely on the Chaliyar, their crafts thriving in the river’s embrace.
A Haven of Biodiversity
Chaliyar was once plagued by pollution from the Mavoor Gwalior Rayons factory, which turned its waters black and wiped out fish populations. But after the factory’s closure, the river gradually reclaimed its lost purity. Today, the early monsoon rains bring fresh mountain waters that flush out the silt, reviving the ecosystem.
The river is home to a diverse range of fish, including iri
meen , chempalli, thirutha, malan, pooyan, eri, vala, narimeen,
koli, and etta. Prawns and freshwater crabs also thrive here, though their
numbers are declining. Rare fish like manjaletta, a medicinal species
found in Chakkittappara and Chempukadavu, are now on the brink of extinction.
The Art of Fishing
Fishing methods on the Chaliyar have evolved over time,
but traditional techniques still hold a place in the hearts of the riverine
people.
- Koruvalla: A
large circular net used at night, where light frightens fish into the
trap.
- Pakkuvala: A
pocketed net where fish get caught as they try to escape.
- Manivala: A
spreading net that shrinks when pulled, trapping fish inside.
- Thandadi
(Ozhukkuvala): A large net stretched across the river and drawn
together by boats, used mainly to catch narimeen.
Other methods include kava eriyuka, where barbed
rods are thrown into the water to impale fish, and traditional fishing rods
with earthworms or prawns as bait. In the past, destructive methods like
poisoning and dynamite fishing were occasionally used, but these have long been
discouraged.
Crabbing and Other River
Creatures
Crab-catching was once a practiced skill, using either
pointed sticks at night or submerged nets baited with chicken intestines. It
was believed that crabs had more meat during the new moon, as they rarely fed
under bright moonlight.
Apart from fish and crabs, mussels (erunthu) are
abundant in Chaliyar, especially in brackish waters. Turtles, cormorants,
herons, ducks, and otters are also part of the river’s ecosystem. The kanjipoth,
a floating organism with acid-like secretions, was used by locals to prevent
bamboo from regrowing.
Floods: A Test of Resilience
Although Chaliyar floods yearly, severe floods requiring
large-scale evacuations have been rare in recent times. The elders, however,
still recall the great floods of the past. When water entered their homes, they
stayed put, believing it would soon recede. Furniture was tied down, doors left
open to prevent damage, and household essentials were moved to rafters. In
those days, there were no government-run relief camps—people sought shelter in
the homes of relatives, traveling by rented boats.
Boat travel was once a way of life along the Chaliyar.
Today, ferry crossings are rare, and bridges have replaced traditional routes.
In the past, boats carried wedding processions and election campaigns,
adding vibrancy to river life. There were boats for fishing, timber transport,
and even passenger services from Feroke to Mavoor. The raft trade, where logs
were tied together and floated downstream, was a fascinating sight—now lost to
history.
Boat-building was an art passed down through generations.
Maruth and teak wood were preferred materials, while fish oil and tree
resin (pantham) were used to waterproof the hulls. Boats required regular
maintenance, a skill mastered by the riverine craftsmen.
Sand Mining: A Vanishing
Livelihood
For decades, sand mining provided a means of survival for
many families. Workers would wake before dawn, diving into the river to scoop
up sand. It was grueling labor, causing health issues among miners. However,
with strict environmental regulations, sand mining along the Chaliyar has all
but disappeared.
Oral Traditions and Local
Sayings
The people of Chaliyar have a unique vocabulary
influenced by the river’s rhythm.
- "Vellam
veli" and "vellam irakkam": High
tide and low tide
- "Kuluppu"
and "niravu": The beginning and peak
of high tide
- "Meen
vettuka" and "meen pulakkuka": Fish
moving upstream in groups
- "Like
a therappakkaran’s shirt": A phrase used to mock
wrinkled, unkempt clothing, inspired by raft travelers’ folded garments.
Memories Etched in the River’s
Flow
The river has gifted its people countless memories—some
gentle, some haunting, all eternal.
The soft murmur of waves caressing the silent night…
The distant rhythm of life echoing over the waters…
The steady beat of narimeen fishermen’s drums…
The hushed conversations of sand miners, drifting like whispers on the breeze…
A river that sings lullabies, cradling you into fearless
sleep, knowing that beyond the darkness, life stirs, awake and watchful.
The childhood joy of setting kamatti fruits ablaze, their
flames dancing in the night…
The thrill of pulling in a fish larger than expected…
The laughter of boats rocking at doorsteps when the waters rise…
The terror of nearly drowning while learning to swim…
The unsettling sight of a body, lifeless, floating downstream…
This river is more than water—it is a current of
memories, flowing endlessly, carrying stories yet to be told.
Acknowledgements
* R. Muhammad, Kadavanthazhathu, Vazhayur
* Peravan Palath Purath, Vazhayur
* Kunjumuhammad, Kodampuzha, Farook College
* Abdul Khader, Thayyil, Kodampuzha
* Sunila M.M., Farook College
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